The 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just concluded, and the watch world is buzzing with excitement. But here’s where it gets controversial: while Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025 took home the prestigious Aiguille d'Or, the absence of industry giants like Patek Philippe and Rolex continues to spark debates about the awards’ inclusivity. Is the GPHG truly the ultimate showcase of watchmaking excellence, or does it favor certain brands over others? Let’s dive in.
Held at the historic Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, the event celebrated the year’s most remarkable achievements in horology. And this is the part most people miss: despite its imperfections, the GPHG remains the industry’s premier platform for recognizing innovation and craftsmanship. Breguet’s win, coinciding with its 250th anniversary, was a highlight, but the evening was packed with moments that reminded us why watches are more than just timekeepers—they’re art, history, and passion.
Controversy Alert: While the GPHG shines a spotlight on many deserving brands, the lack of participation from Swatch Group and Richemont brands raises questions. Does this diminish the awards’ credibility, or does it simply highlight the competitive spirit within the industry? Share your thoughts in the comments!
The night also marked a farewell to Nick Foulkes, the outgoing president of the GPHG jury, whose tenure has been pivotal in shaping the awards. Meanwhile, Greubel Forsey’s CEO Michel Nydegger used his acceptance speech for the 'Mechanical Exception' award to applaud Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg for embracing mechanical watches in a tech-dominated world. A bold move, but is it enough to bridge the gap between tradition and innovation?
Now, let’s break down the winners by category, each of which tells a unique story of craftsmanship and creativity.
Aiguille d'Or: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet’s victory was a testament to its ability to blend tradition and modernity. CEO Gregory Kissling’s acceptance speech paid homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand’s founder, and hinted at a future where heritage meets innovation. But with such fierce competition, was this win expected, or did it surprise you?
Time Only: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
In a category dominated by diverse designs, the Roth Extra Plat stood out for its simplicity. Fabrique du Temps’ achievement in creating a time-only watch that feels both timeless and contemporary is no small feat. Is this a sign of a broader trend toward minimalism in watchmaking?
Men’s: Urban Jürgensen UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Urban Jürgensen’s UJ-2, overseen by Kari Voutilainen, won over heavyweights like Chopard and Zenith. Its dual-wheel natural escapement and clean design were undeniable, but does this win signal a shift toward independent brands in the industry?
Men’s Complication: Bovet 1822 Récital 30
Bovet’s Récital 30 redefined the world-time complication with its practical and technically advanced approach. By accounting for Daylight Saving Time, it offers something most traditional world timers can’t. But is this innovation enough to overshadow its competitors?
Ladies': Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
Named after a sea urchin, this watch is as unique as it sounds. Accepted by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who worked with Genta himself, this win celebrates the brand’s legacy. But in a category filled with stunning designs, was this the right choice?
Ladies' Complication: Chopard Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard’s romantic complication, which tracks the seasons in real time, was a crowd favorite. But with entries from AP and Hermes, was this win a foregone conclusion, or did Chopard truly outshine the competition?
Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
The Royal Oak’s latest iteration took home the Iconic prize, thanks to its new perpetual calendar movement. But in a category as subjective as 'Iconic,' does this win reflect the watch’s true status, or is it a matter of brand power?
Tourbillon: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
At just 1.85mm thick, this watch is a marvel of engineering. But with competition from Louis Vuitton and others, does its technical prowess alone justify the win?
Chronograph: Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Angelus’ monopusher chronograph impressed at Watches and Wonders and continued its winning streak at the GPHG. But is this watch truly for enthusiasts, or is it a niche piece?
Sports: Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF
Chopard’s limited edition Alpine Eagle stood out for its lightweight ceramicised titanium case and high-frequency movement. But in a category dominated by sporty designs, does this watch redefine what a sports watch can be?
Jewellery: Dior Montres La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Dior’s intricate jewelry setting and tribute to garlands won over the judges. But in a category that celebrates both timekeeping and artistry, did Dior strike the right balance?
Petite Aiguille: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.2 Green
Max Büsser’s M.A.D.2 Green, priced between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000, showcased an in-house jumping-hour module. But with competition from Nomos, does this watch offer the best value in its category?
Challenge: Dennison Natural Stone Tiger Eye in Gold
Dennison’s retro-cool quartz watch, priced under CHF 3,000, proved that affordability doesn’t mean compromising on style. But in a category focused on accessibility, does this watch truly stand out?
Mechanical Exception: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante
Greubel Forsey’s Nano Foudroyante packed multiple complications into a slim, wearable design. But with such complexity, is this watch practical, or is it purely a showcase of technical prowess?
Final Thoughts: The 2025 GPHG was a night of triumphs, surprises, and debates. From Breguet’s historic win to Greubel Forsey’s technical marvel, each award tells a story. But as the watch industry evolves, so too must the GPHG. What changes would you like to see in future editions? And which brand do you think will dominate next year? Let us know in the comments!
